Revisiting the celebrated Hill Section of the old Assam Bengal Railway, 
one of the few remnants of the metre gauge railroad that once ran from 
Chittagong Port all the way to Tinsukia Jn. Planters working in Upper 
Assam, the Surma Valley and Cachar would have had the choice of 
using this route in journeys from Kolkata from circa 1902 till Independence
 and Partition: train from Sealdah to Goalundo Ghat, steamer down the 
Ganga (Padma) to Chandpur, then another train all the way north and 
east to Assam with a change at Laksam Jn.

 

This particular trip was undertaken during the monsoon of 2005, when 
the jungle cloaked Barail Hills are at their picturesque best (but also 
when the line is frequently closed by landslides).  The journey from 
Lumding Jn to Haflong was by passenger train (mostly on the roof!)
and the return in the caboose of a goods train. 

The editor thanks Bharat Vohra, Samit Roychoudhury and Mohan Bhuyan
for sharing their experience and taking the photos for us all to enjoy. 
Mohan points out that the photo of the the famous Doyang or Diyung Viaduct  
was taken by Alexandre Gillieron.

 

May 30 2007

The story of Second Lieutenant Arun Khetrapal
(as told by Brig Pt Hangadharan)

     Strange Sequel


My son goes to Sanawar, a school up in the Himalayas. It used to be a Military school (154 years old) and like any old school, Sanawar has its fair share of heroes amongst its old students.

One such hero from that school that I want to write about is 2nd Lieutenant Arun Khetarpal, son of Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal. He was born on 14 October 1950, in Pune, Maharashtra. He was commissioned in the 17 Poona Horse on 13 June 1971, just a few months before the Indo- Pakistan 1971 war. The story of his heroism is as follows.

During the 1971 Indo-Pak War, the 47 Infantry Brigade, with the 17 Poona Horse under command, was ordered to establish a bridge-head across the Basantar river in Shakargarh sector. The 47 Inf. Bde. completed the task by 2100 hours on December 15th. It was now for the engineers to breach the Pakistani mine-fields and make a safe lane for the induction of the 17 Poona Horse in support of the bridge-head. While the engineers were half way through their task, the Indian troops at the bridge-head reported alarming activity of the Pakistani armour.

They requested immediate tank support. But the mine-field had been cleared only partially by that time. At this critical juncture, the 17 Poona Horse decided to push through the mine-field come what may. By first light on December 16th, the regiment established a link-up between the armour and the infantry at the bridge-head.

At 0800 hours, the Pakistanis made a counter-attack with an armour regiment, under the cover of a smoke-screen. The target was the regimental pivot at Jarpal. As the Indians troops were heavily outnumbered, the Commander of 'B' Squadron requested reinforcement. At that time, 2nd Lt. Khetarpal was positioned close to the squadron with his troops in two tanks. He answered the call and moved out to face the Pakistani attack. On the way, his troops came under fire from Pakistani strong points and recoilless gun nests, in the bridge-head zone.

2nd Lt. Khetarpal fiercely attacked these strong-points, over-ran Pakistani defences and captured many Pakistani soldiers and recoilless guns at gun point. During one of these attacks, the commander of his second tank was killed on the spot leaving him alone. But he continued attack on the Pakistani strongholds single-handed, until all the Pakistani positions were overwhelmed. He then raced to the 'B' Squadron position. By the time he reached there, the Pakistani tanks were on the retreat. He pursued and destroyed one of these tanks. The 'B' Squadron Commander could persuade him to fall back in line after great difficulty.

The Pakistanis soon reformed for a second attack. This time they chose the sector held by 2nd Lt. Arun Khetarpal and two other Officers, for the main attack. The Pakistani employed a complete armoured squadron against these three tanks in order to achieve a breakthrough. A fierce tank battle followed. As many as ten Pakistani tanks were destroyed and of these 2nd Lieutenant Khetarpal alone destroyed four. In the thick of the battle, two of the three Indian tanks became casualties - one was hit and another suffered mechanical failure.

The third tank, which was 2nd Lt. Khetarpal's tank, also received a shot and burst into flames. The Commander of the tank troops ordered 2nd Lt. Khetarpal to abandon the burning tank. But realising the useful role of his tank in preventing a breakthrough he communicated the following message to his Commander: "No Sir, I will not abandon my tank. My gun is still working and I will get these guys."

Then he set about destroying the remaining Pakistani tanks. The last Pakistani tank which he shot was barely 100 metres from his position. At this stage his tank received a second hit. The brave Officer met his death denying the Pakistani the intended breakthrough. For his conspicuous gallantry in the face of the Pakistani, 2nd Lt. Arun Khetarpal was honoured with the highest wartime gallantry medal, the Param Vir Chakra, posthumously.

He was the youngest Indian to win this highest award. The Indo �Pakistan war of 1971, nearly 33 years ago is history for most of us.

However a strange sequel was to follow for the Khetarpal family.

Many years later, India and Pakistan established 'people to people' contacts between both the nations. This was also known as 'Twin Track Diplomacy'.

Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal, father of 2nd Lt. Khetarpal started receiving messages that a certain Brigadier from the Pakistani army was keen to meet him. However since he did not know this particular Brigadier, Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal did not do anything to encourage the meeting.

In 2001, Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal now 81 years old felt a strong desire to visit his birthplace, at Sargodha, now in Pakistan. It was a wish that he thought that would never materialize, but when he voiced it to some friends engaged in the Twin Track Diplomacy, they arranged all his papers, visas, travel and staying arrangements in Pakistan so that he could go for the visit.

At Lahore airport, Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal was met by Brigadier Khawja Mohammad Naser, who took it upon himself to be Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal host and guide. Brigadier Naser really went out of way to ensure that Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal had a satisfying and nostalgic visit to his old house in Sargodha. Upon his return to Lahore he was once again the guest of Brigadier Naser for three days.

Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal was overwhelmed by the extreme kindness, deference, courtesy and respect bestowed upon him by Brigadier Naser, all the members of his family and his many servants. As the countdown for the departure progressed, the bonds of friendship between the guests and the host grew stronger and stronger. However Brigadier Khetarpal felt that something was amiss but could not make out what it was. Was it the long silences that punctuated their animated conversation or was it the look of compassion in the eyes of the women in the family. He could not make out.

However what was certain was that he would always remember the hospitality, warmth and affection of this Pakistani family who treated him as someone very very special.

Finally at the last night before Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal's departure, Brigadier Naser said 'Sir there is something that I wanted to tell you for many years but I did not know how to get through to you. Finally fate has intervened and sent you to me as an honoured guest. The last few days we have become close to one another and that has made my task even more difficult. It is regarding your son who is of course a national hero in India. However on that fateful day, your son and I were soldiers, unknown to one another, fighting for the respect and safety of our respective countries. I regret to tell you that your son died in my hands. Arun's courage was exemplary and he moved his tank with fearless courage and daring, totally unconcerned about his safety. Tank casualties were very high till finally there were just two of us left facing one another. We both fired simultaneously� it was destined that I was to live and he was to die.

It is only later that I got to know how young he was and who he was. We are trained to fight and kill without mercy or remorse. We do in war what we have to without thinking too much about it. However we are humans too and sometimes war takes a personal turn and makes an impact on the inner self.

I had all along thought that I would ask your forgiveness, but in telling the story I realize that there is nothing to forgive. Instead I salute your son for what he did at such a young age and I salute you too, because I know how he grew into such a young man. In the end it is character and values that matter."

Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal was silent as he did not know how to react. To be faced with the person who killed his son, and also to be enjoying his hospitality and being his guest is a confusing feeling. However Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal immediately realized that Brigadier Naser was genuinely wanting, in some way to compensate for something that he did only in the line of duty. The soldier must do what he has been trained to do unhesitatingly, and with full resolve and determination.

Both the Brigadiers retired for the night deep in thought. There are never any victors in war, both sides lose and it is the families that have to pay the price and suffer the most. As someone once said ' Wars are created by politicians, compounded by bureaucrats and fought by soldiers.

The next day photographs were taken and Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal returned back to Delhi. Later the photos reached Delhi along with a note from Brigadier Naser that said:

With Warmest regards and utmost sincerity,

To:
Brigadier M.L. Khetarpal, father of Shaheed Second Lieutenant Arun. Khetarpal, PVC,who stood like an unsurmountable rock, between the victory and failure, of the counter attack by the 'SPEARHEADS' 13 LANCERS
on 16 December 1971 in the battle of "Bara Pind' as we call it
and battle of "Basantar' as 17 Poona Horse remembers.

Khawja Mohammad Naser, 13 Lancers
02 March 2001
Lahore, Pakistan

January 25 2007

Farewell rickshaw KOLKATA: Bengal lawmakers on Monday voted out and bade farewell to a friend of Kolkatans' through thick and thin — the hand-pulled rickshaw. The Calcutta Hackney-Carriage (Amendment) Bill, 2006, to phase out hand-pulled rickshaws sailed through the state Assembly easily, courtesy a boycott by Trinamul MLAs. The bill, when enacted, will undo what Chinese traders did for Kolkata's transportation in the late 19th century by introducing this eco-friendly transport. That was years after Shimla boasted of it in 1888. Incidentally, the first hand-pulled rickshaws that plied on Kolkata's streets were freight carriers. Only later did they become the much-chastised man-carrying-man vehicles of today. Though the government insists the bill will be signed into law immediately, it will have to seek legal advice on pending applications for licences which Calcutta High Court has ruled must be accepted. Monday's legislative action is the culmination of over 15 months of debate set off by an unprecedented chief ministerial press conference last year to announce that hand-pulled rickshaws would be off Kolkata streets. The bill amending the Calcutta Hackney Carriage Act, 1919 was introduced in the Assembly on July 20 this year and referred to a select committee. While piloting the bill, CM Buddhadeb Bhattacharjee reiterated what he had said earlier. "We must agree on one point that in the 21st century it is not right for a human being to pull another human being. Wherever I go, be it Delhi , Mumbai or abroad, people ask me how long Kolkata will have hand-pulled rickshaws? This is a shame for our city. We should have done this much earlier." All that was needed to put an end to hand-pulled rickshaws, was to remove the words "and palanquins and to make certain provisions with regard to rickshaws" from the original act. The MLAs agreed to it. The CM promised rehabilitation for rickshaw-pullers. "Rehabilitation will go along with removal. It isn't that we will remove the rickshaws and give the rehabilitation package later on," he said and claimed that rickshaw-pullers' unions had accepted the alternative vocations the government had proposed. "I have talked with the Kolkata mayor about setting up cooperatives to run car parking lots. This way they will earn more than what they used to earn. The number of cars is going up and we need more parking lots. At least 2,000 people will be involved here," Bhattacharjee said. For rehabilitation, the first task is to find out the exact number of hand-pulled rickshaw wallahs . The number of licensed hand-pulled rickshaws is 5,937. "We assume there are as many rickshaw-pullers as there are licensed rickshaws. We are also talking with NGOs about helping some of them set up small trading units. Those who cannot do anything will be given financial compensation," he said.

 

 

 

         November 17 2006
Rex Naug kindly sent us this copy from the Australian

Thanks Rex

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Drunk elephants trample three to death
Jeremy Page
16nov06

A HERD of elephants drunk on rice beer trampled to death three people, including a four-year-old boy, on a rampage through a village in the northeastern Indian state of Assam.

Residents of Teok Kathoni tried to scare the animals off using drums and firecrackers, but the elephants drank the remote village's stock of rice beer, then charged through huts, killing the boy and injuring his brother, 8. It was the latest in a string of incidents over the past fortnight, which wildlife experts have attributed to human encroachment on the elephants' natural habitat.
Until recently, they lived in relative seclusion in the dense forest that covers the region near India's borders with Bangladesh, Burma, Bhutan and China.
But as the forests have shrunk, the elephants have strayed into nearby villages.
Villagers have often killed elephants by electrocuting them, shooting them with poison-tipped arrows or leaving out poisoned food spikes.
In the past five years, elephants have killed 239 people in Assam. Wildlife experts have blamed the rampage on an influx of settlers over the past five years.
The settlers are estimated to inhabit up to 18,000ha illegally in 10 national parks and game sanctuaries.
Ravi Singh, of WWF India, said the elephants have a sharp sense of smell, so they are attracted by the pungency of the rice beer. "It's not the alcohol, it's the smell from the fermentation process that attracts them."
The Times

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August 12 2006

This item was taken from the BBC NEWS

Where Land Rovers never die
  By Alastair Lawson  BBC News 

The north-eastern Indian hill area of  Darjeeling is renowned throughout the world for the quality of its tea.

But now Darjeeling is being noted for the quality of another of its enduring assets: a collection of Land Rovers driven by locals for the last 50 years.

Many of the vehicles have been used and abused for the last half-century without locals being aware of their value in the West.

Experts say that some used as taxis could be worth in excess of $38,000.

Taxis

"Darjeeling is a Land Rover lover's dream," says expert Les Roberts.

"Some of the long-wheel base models being driven around the streets of the town are series one vehicles manufactured in the UK in between 1956 and 1958.

"Only around 100 or so exist in Britain, and only around 500 worldwide. Of these only a few are in working order, which is why they would be worth so much money in the West."

We did not realise our Land Rovers may well be valuable collectors' items  Darjeeling Land Rover driver Suman Gorkha Yet it seems the owners of the Darjeeling Land Rovers may be unaware just how valuable their vehicles may be.

"We use them as taxis to earn a living," said driver Suman Gorkha.

"Obviously we keep them well-maintained because they provide us with a living, but it has never occurred to us that outside of Darjeeling they could be worth a lot of money."

Experts say that the vehicles were exported to Darjeeling throughout the late 1950s.

Mr Roberts - who writes for Land Rover Monthly - says that they are not seen much in India apart from the hilly areas of the north-east.

'Consumer society'

Old foreign vehicles are a rare sight in India because of import restrictions imposed by successive governments in the years following independence.

Land Rovers were allowed to be imported because they were classified as commercial vehicles rather than cars.

Mr Roberts says that the explanation for their longevity is because they are well maintained by capable local mechanics.

Many have new engines and some have been specially adapted to take fuels other than diesel and petrol.

"In India the consumer society culture is not so strong, so the vehicles are not discarded as soon as they break down as perhaps they would have been in the West," he said.

"Another important factor is the lack of road salt and agricultural chemicals which damages the bodywork of so many of the vehicles in the West.

"It is often said that 75% of Land Rovers manufactured are still on the road," Mr Roberts said.

"In India they are kept going by a combination of knife and fork mechanics using Land Rover spare parts - or pattern parts - which are copied and are therefore far cheaper.

"There is no reason why these vehicles cannot go on for ever."

____________________________________-

July 18 2006
Dooars Party 1963
In the picture are 
Standing: Dudley Robert, Alan Gordon, Amrita Bogra, unknown, Martin Hall, Chris Doutre, 
Sitting Margie Robert, Jean  Gordon, Narendra Pal, 
Behind: Mike Dean and Nandan Kilpadi

Roger Pal writes: I am pleased to attach this  old photograph taken by Vinod Bogra Acting Manager at New Dooars T.E. Binnaguore Manager's Bungalow
Mr Alan Gordon was Superintendent. All were with Andrew Yule except Nandan Kilpadi who was from Gillanders. Through koi-hai I have been in touch with Martin Hall, Chris Doutre, and Mrs Roberts all old friends and I know they will enjoy the photograph
(Roger is now based in Houston Texas as Executive VP of WSI Services-if anyone wishes to get in touch with Roger please contact the Editor)

July 17 2006
Ramesh Jaitly visits Aberdeen

From the "Aberdeen & District Independent" Aberdeen, Scotland Thursday September 3rd 1998

City's tea time

Ramesh flies in to join planters at their annual Aberdeen reunion

The granite city is famous for it's links with oil, fish and paper, but Aberdeen also has roots firmly embedded in another industry. Scots played a leading role in the opening up of the forests in Assam and planting and manufacturing of tea.

And there are still retired tea planters in Aberdeen - many of whom will be brought together to reminisce times past at a reunion dinner being held at the Amatola Hotel on September 11.

Ramesh Jaitly, a retired Indian tea Planter who joined the Badlipar Tea Company in the 50's has travelled all the way from his home country to meet old friends at the reunion. He says the tombstones of cemeteries in Assam are full of Scottish surnames.

"In the early days of tea planting the average expectation of life was said to be six months. If malaria did not take you, a tiger or snake would. Here they were, the Scots, thousands of miles away from home in totally alien surroundings, in complete charge of tea estates." said Mr. Jaitly.

He remembers many idiosyncrasies of the Scots planters, but one from Stonehaven, Henry Crabb, holds a very special place in his heart. "Crabbie, as he was popularly known, was not only a knowledgeable and competent planter, but extremely perceptive with an immense understanding of not only his management team but also tribal labour and their ways" explained Mr. Jaitly. He had a phenomenal capacity to remember the names of most of the two thousand plus workers on the two Tea Estates of which he was Superintendent. The workers also understood and respected him." he added. Mr. Jaitly says he remember meeting Crabb one afternoon at his bungalow office.

"His bearer had just brought in some tea, when a worker rushed in breathless and agitated: 'Come quickly Sahib, the Kamjari babu (field clerk) is going to hang himself'. I shot up from my chair expecting Crabb to do the same, 'Sit down and finish your tea,' he told me." Mr. Jaitly says he was confused by Crabb's action and thought what kind of man could he be to ignore this sort of emergency.

"Crabb calmy continued the discussion, finished his cup of tea, picked up his cane, and we walked to the hospital where the suicide was allegedly taking place," he said. The pair found the Kamjari Babu perched on a tree with a rope round his neck, and a crowd of 400 onlookers pleading with him not to hang himself.

"But Crabb appeared to be totally unmoved by the whole proceedings," said Mr. Jaitly. "He just stood there looking at the Babu, with an occasional glance at his own watch. After a few minutes he called out to the Babu 'Hurry up and finish what you are doing, I have to get back to my tea'. The crowd was aghast at these heartless words. The Babu, however, climbed down from his perch, came up to Crabb and shouted 'I WILL DIE' . And die he did, many years later, of cancer."

Mr. Jaitly explained: "Crabb later told me that if the Babu had wanted to commit suicide he would have done so even before the messenger had reached us, and if he hadn't by then, he wouldn't at all."

During his visit to Aberdeen Mr. Jaitly plans to visit the grave of Henry Crabb and drink a toast with old friends to memories of times past.

______________________________

July 7 2006

This item of considerable interest was sent in by Venk Shenoi and we thank him

 

June 14 2006

April 2 2006

Alan Wood kindly sent in this fishing story which is DIFFERENT--thanks Alan

"Hooking a Bird"

Here is a true story of me catching a small Swift (bird) with a fishing lure.

On 29th March 2006, my brother, James and I, (on one boat) and Colin Lamare & Mark Lynrah( on another ) were rafting and fishing the Bhorelli River in Assam. We reached an area known as Upor Dikhorai at about 3.45 PM. A lot of Swifts were flying over the river catching small insects or whatever. I casted a Mepps 4 Spinner towards the middle of the river and almost immediately I saw a Swift plunging into the water close to where the spinner had dropped. I saw the bird disappear under the water. I told my brother and the boatmen about it. As I was reeling in and at about 25 to 30 feet the bird surfaced at the end of my line(spinner). At about 15 ft it disentangled or unhooked itself and fluttered to the bank. Kali and Suresh, the boatmen, retrieved the bird which was looking very wet and sorry for itself but did not appear to have been injured. After taking a few snaps, I put the bird on a branch by the banks. I can't think what made it go for the spinner. It could be that it mistook the spinner for an insect of some kind and it's wing or feather got entangled with the hook or line.

The two snaps were taken by my brother,James(Jimmy) .


*************************************

  April 2 2006

Panitola T.E. 1964
Cathie Campbell kindly passed on Mick Garnett's photograph with notes, thank you Mick and Cathie--an interesting piece of memorabilia

Mick writes:
Whilst clearing out a lot of rubbish I came across this photograph which you may wish to place on your website. It was the out-garden (Babus & Sirdars) at Panitola T.E. February 1964 which means I was 25 at the time. The two out -gardens involved were Depot Line and Majbari for which I was responsible --I think the Manager at the time was Peter Castle and the Superintendent was Stew Campbell

Just a little bit of trivia, I recall that "Majbari" was named after a Marjorie who was related to Guy (and Pam) Henson, he being the Manager of a nearby garden. Guy I think was the brother of Lesley Henson, a well known English actor
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March 26th 2006

                  TEA  PLANTER'S  MORNING  PRAYER.

 

                    Our Lager

                    Which art in barrels,

                    Hallowed be thy drink.

                    I will be drunk,

                    At home as in the tavern.

                    Give us this day our foamy head,

                    And forgive us our spillages

                    As we forgive those who spill against us.

                    And lead us not into incarceration

                    But deliver us from hangovers.

                    For thine is the beer

                    The bitter and the lager

                    Forever and ever  

                    BARMEN.

 

  Contributed by  Danny  Pariat  ex WM's 
and we thank him

  -Danny  writes -alas I do not know the composer but perhaps someone can help out?? but whoever he is hallowed be his name for composing such a wonderful 'prayer'. It should be familiar to many a tea planter who had imbibed of the water of life!!   I had picked this up some years ago and thought I should put it up for all to see ____________

 Ward's lake (sometime in  early 1900)    Photo courtesy:-  Dr Imdad Hussain.

  Biver's Chateau (was situated at the same site as the present Governor's House).Photo courtesy:- Pitts Rivers Museum.

Golf Club House.   Photo courtesy:-  Imdad Hussain